Dear Roger,

I read your blog ‘i gots no clothes’, hear your cry for help and as your longtime friend and admirer, am going to step in and offer some unsolicited style advice.  You’re one of the best looking guys I know and it’s a royal shame to let that greatness be wrapped up in clothing that is less than stellar.  Also, I have to stop you from doing the male equivalent of wearing Ugg boots and minis and suggest a moratorium on funky button downs that are default hip-yet-casual gear for the urban set.  These shirts risk crossing into similar territory as the Ed Hardy printed t-shirt – a tattoo surrogate and fashion staple for regular guys who want to sport the ink but can’t deal with the permanence or pain.  But you’re so much better than that.  I know you’re a responsible, selfless person and would sooner spend money on your dear loved ones than on an outfit for yourself.  But I assure you, it can be painless and not too pricey to invest in some staples that are versatile and will become go-to classics in your wardrobe so you can show off your God-given assets with grace and style.

Roger – you’re accessible and athletic, while also being a man of arts and culture.  So get inspired by Paul Newman or James Dean and go for the effortlessly cool, non uptight, all-American vibe.

How?  Let me break it down for you.

Your SSBF (sassy straight best friend – to learn more, go to Phil’s blog about the sassy gay best friend),

Elaine

A Return to the Classics

America’s preppie and workwear heritage has had an intense comeback thanks to obsessive Japanese collectors and designers as Daiki Suzuki who gave Woolrich Woolen Mills an upgrade.

Daiki Suzuki - Designer and another Japanese dude who can tweak and pull off Americana with effortless swagger

The Japanese obsession with collecting and reproducing Americana clothing not only means a scrupulous attention to subtle and important details – cut, fit, patina, and hardwear but also has produced a variety of options for price-conscious shoppers.  While it means that this look may get a bit blown out, it does mean that you will have access to some good reproductions of this great stuff at a range of prices.  Interest in original brands like Baracuta and Gant has been resuscitated which means solid reproductions of  iconic Baracuta jackets and Gant rugby shirts (remember those cool rubber buttons?) for the mass market.  You’ve got higher end designers helping upgrade classic labels – Michael Bastian for Gant and Thom Browne’s Black Fleece for Brooks Brothers and, old-school inspired lines from established and newer designers such as, Daiki Suzuki’s Engineered Garments,  Band of Outsiders, Rag and Bone, Rogues Gallery, and the sadly defunct Ralph Lauren Double RL line (available in limited quantities via third party sellers).  Meanwhile, mass market retailers have upped their game and gone back to reproducing these classic work and sports wear items with a much higher degree of authenticity and quality to the original.  You have J.Crew who are selling original workwear designers like Barbour and, acquiring the Madewell brand – an original 1937 workwear label that sponsors a heritage-inspired line of casual basics.  You have Gap which has expanded their 1969 vintage line and H&M, who have also caught the Americana wave.

But before you dive into your Americana makeover, I’d suggest checking out the originals – some of which can be found at J.Crew (who carry Barbour, Baracuta, etc.), Barneys NY, or at the flea markets to develop an eye and touch for the period details and see how you like the way the original fits.  Sometimes your build may be perfect for the original cut while for others, your body type may be better suited for the modern cuts.  Whether loose or slim, these modern cuts should work with your body without detracting from the essence of the original style.  Generally, I’d recommend sticking with the classic cut if possible because the correct period proportions are what makes the item evoke that distinctive vintage feel.  But if it doesn’t work for your shape, then pick a cut that flatters you accordingly.

1. Classic 50s sportswear.

The 50s was when the preppie look was relaxed and had a youthful insouciance as opposed to 80s era preppie, which screamed uppercrust, douchebag John Hughes villain.  The eras of preppie and their stylistic variations are distinguished by fit and color. The 50s style is cut close to the body but not metrosexual tight. Whereas, the 80s is loose without being oversized.  Also, 50s colors were largely strong and rich primary/secondary colors but, the 80s were all about pastels and brights.  The Baracuta jacket made iconic by James Dean in ‘Rebel Without A Cause’ and Steve McQueen in ‘Thomas Crowne Afffair’ is classic 50s preppie and has made a comeback.  At LL Bean Signature (an offshoot of the original New England label but made hipper by Rogues Gallery designer Alex Carleton), you can get a reproduced version originally priced at $109.00, on sale for $54.50.

2.  Workwear – The Jacket

No, I’m not talking about the hiphop circa 1990s super oversized Carhartt jackets and Timberland boots with the laces and tongue hanging out.  I’m talking about getting stuff that fits comfortably.  Clothing that is neither metrosexual tight or hiphop baggy.  And though some workwear is fine in their modern mass market incarnation ala Gap, Abercrombie & Finch etc., the jackets from these stores are noticeably not quite right.  Their cut and fit are bit off and they lack the right hardware detailing.  Moreover, they are usually cheaply made which means that the more you wear it, the more it just falls apart rather than takes on a beautiful, weathered patina.  If you don’t have the patience for flea markets to hunt and peck for the real deal and, don’t want to risk looking like Timothy McVeigh by buying camogear at your local Army-Navy store, then I’d say stay away from Carhartt as their fit is too boxy and go for the hunting/horsey gear at Barbour.  The label has been outfitting the royals of England for decades and now are being donned by UK hipsters such as songstress, Lily Allen and presenter/”It” girl Alexa Chung.  Sold at Orvis and at retail outlets for horseback riders, the jackets aren’t cheap.  But for the quality, U.S. made craftsmanship (and the fact that you can get their jackets rewaxed at their New England factory), it’s a good deal.  Also, you can find some used on Ebay which is where I got mine for 50-80% off retail and the broken-in patina is free.  Though the classic styles are more like barn jackets with collars, I like this modern, hooded parka style below as it’s got a rakish, urban vibe to it.

3. Old School denim

There’s nothing like, the proper fitting denim that is not trying to work a tight, metrosexual vibe or baggy, gangstah attitude.  This denim is not trying to be fashionable, trying to make your ass look good, or your shoulders look built.  It simply just is.  Again, even if you don’t have the patience to beat off the Japanese dealers at the Rosebowl when dawn breaks to fight over the original Levis, you can still get some decent reprods for a good price.  Nowadays, chambray has made it’s comeback and is the new black.  But regardless of trendiness, I like chambray shirts as they are versatile and can be preppie, hipster, sporty, country or urban.  However, denim cowboy shirts with the stitching and snap buttons just scream to me as late 90s Vince Vaughn and evokes memories of every LA guy who aspired to be like him with the 5 o’clock shadow, bedhead, and cigarette.  Gap has a men’s chambray shirt for $49.50 which is on the higher side for them but it’s only because every other designer from J.Crew on up, has their version of this hot shirt for two, three, four times as much.

4. Narrow (but not skinny) ties.

If you are not a full-time post punk rocker, a lost member of The Romantics, a Rude Boy, and/or have no clue or interest in  those pop cultural references then don’t go for super skinny ties (less than 2″) and instead, go for the late 50s ties that are merely slim (at 2 or 2.5″).  It’s worth paying a bit more for 100% natural fiber (eg:silk, wool, cotton), good quality stuff as this is the one accent you’re putting on and if it looks like you bought it out of a dollar store, all the effort you put into wearing a respectable monkey suit will be all for naught.  Ties do add an extra bit of spiff and polish to the man but keep the tie lean, collar short and lapels narrow to evoke that late 50s/early 60s Mad Men vibe or else you risk looking stodgy.  That is unless you are one of those rare guys who can pull off the 70s wide tie, big lapel suit look (sans gator shoes, feather adorned wide brimmed hat, and two ladies on both arms).  Again, ties can be found in abundance at flea markets and ebay but you just have to be patient and dig.  However if you’re a retail person,  J. Crew keeps a solid selection of slim ties in good quality fabrics for $40 (on sale) -$70 each.

5. White t-shirts.

You got this one right.  Can’t beat a great white t-shirt.  But again, it’s all about the fit and cut.  There’s a difference between the American Apparel, clingy, nipple bearing, ringer t-shirt that makes you look like an extra from ‘Boogie Nights’ and a nice, dense, old school Hanes beefy t-shirt that hugs the body properly without making it seem like you’re trying too hard.  The Japanese covet the new old stock (NOS) versions that have that classic 50s fit as unfortunately all the new ones look like baggy gym shirts.  I suspect that’s why American Apparel has managed to succeed with its range of fitted t’s (not just for its ads that are a throw back to 70s porn shoots).  With the right white t-shirt, it’s the perfect uniform for the man who has the confidence to go out in the world as a blank slate.